High Times Magazine’s Official Troubleshooting Guide for Beginner Growers

High Times Magazine’s Official Troubleshooting Guide for Beginner Growers

New cannabis cultivators must learn to identify and treat a variety of conditions from the grow room immediately and correctly. Here are the most common marijuana-growing problems and how to resolve them quickly and efficiently.

My leaves are turning yellow and falling off. What gives?

This is a sign your plant is short on nitrogen, an essential nutrient. As a result, the plant is using the nitrogen stored within its leaves for photosynthesis and chlorophyll production. You might have returned to the garden to find that a few of the most significant fan leaves have become lifeless and the linking part of the foliage can be flicked off.

What you want to do here is remove the yellowing leaves for a couple of different reasons. You are going to want them out of sight and out of the backyard as insects are attracted to the color yellow. (This is why sticky strips made for catching flies are yellow.) Another reason to lose the leaves is that they’re useless to the plant and removing them will allow more light to the lower regions of the plant that the fan leaves were covering.

If you find that the newest smaller leaves are becoming bright yellow and brittle, then you need to immediately add nitrogen that’s readily available.

Why is there a rotten-egg-like odor coming from my living room?

This will most likely happen when you are growing organically. That foul sewer-like odor is produced by a microbe that’s in the growing medium. The bacteria are anaerobic, so they flourish in environments that are waterlogged with low oxygenbasically, swamp conditions.

To prevent this, introduce hydrogen peroxide into the growing medium at 3 percent strength. This is distilled water using an additional hydrogen molecule attached, an unstable molecule. Once it is in touch with any germs, it will starve the organism of oxygen and kill it. It will also kill any bacteria that are beneficial you have in your grow medium; however, your roots will revive and the anaerobic bacteria will evaporate.

A great tip here is to make sure your growing medium isn’t waterlogged. This is precisely how anaerobic bacteria are formed, and even more so if you’re using organic nutrients.

Should you’ve discovered under close inspection your fan leaves and latest growth have miniature yellow blotches on them, then, sadly, you have signs of spider mites. You won’t notice these very small pests with the naked eye; you can only see the collateral damage they leave behind.

A spider-mite infection at any stage of this grow can be catastrophic, so my advice is to be careful where you supply your clones from. It’s important to limit any potential threats that are being brought into the backyard. You’ll also want to decrease your humidity, as spider mites thrive in a clammy environment.

It’s always best to have living predators on standby ready to patrol your garden. Once you have introduced these predators into your grow space, the outcomes are going to be a slow reduction of the amount of spider mites or anything problematic insects you’re dealing with.

Troubleshooting for Beginner Pot Growers

Webbing is a certain sign of a spider mite infestation gone awry (High Times)

I attempted to cut the top of a shoot to make two shoots, but I overlooked. What will happen now?

Don’t worry, since this is a technique practiced on a broad spectrum by all types of growers. It entails the elimination of about 70-80 percent of a shoot so that enough is left behind for the plant to decrease the growth hormone auxin but also promote lateral growth from the lowest parts of the shoot that has been cut.

In the event that you intended to develop two new shoots from one, this can still happen, but you want to wait about 10 days for the plant to recover and become bushy. Then you can begin the procedure to top the plant again.

My once white and fluffy roots are now thin, fragile and brown. What happened?

You’ve got what’s called root rot, and this happens when the growth medium becomes waterlogged. Roots need oxygen to breathe throughout their search for moisture and nutrients. Again, using hydrogen peroxide can help bring back the roots to life, but will repotting the plants into a medium that comprises loads of air pockets.

A great idea is to use a 50 percent coco and 50 percent perlite mix for a medium, and adding worm castings, blood meal and any humate rich in nitrogen.

I noticed spiderwebs forming around the leaves. What is this?

This is not a net from a spider that has somehow entered the backyard, but instead a complete invasion of spider mites. These pests can lay eggs and multiply in a short time in the ideal surroundings, so controlling that situation with clinical effect is necessary.

When you inspect your plants, you need to look at each one from the garden and remember the spider mites are so small they can move from plant to plant using the air currents in the fans in the room.

Get a magnifying glass and get close up and personal to be able to recognize their presence; once you do, you can then try and manage the problem with predators that will depopulate the spider-mite colony.

There are miniature grey flies on the surface of the growing medium. Where did they come from?

These little fly larvae can be frustrating, and they can even be inside the soil or coco from a grow store. There’s very little you can do about these apart from setting up sticky fly traps. You can even keep the top of your grow medium dry and maintain continuous air flow, as adult flies cannot lay their eggs in dry growing medium.

Troubleshooting for Beginner Pot Growers

Supporting branches by using a display increases yields considerably (High Times)

I’ve been told to use a display in my next increase for a more substantial return. Why should I do this?

Using a display at canopy level is a developing technique in which leaves above the display are kept and leaves below the screen are eliminated. The display not only adds support for heavy branches; it also allows you to expand your canopy greatly by training your plants during the vegetative stage.

The idea using a display is to pull on the new trained shoots through each square strategically, so that when the plant flowers, the area above the display is devoted to producing compact buds. When you have efficiently filled every square of the screen and removed the insignificant lower expansion, the plant will now concentrate all its energy on the top canopy above the monitor.

There can be several factors why you cannot get your temperature under 80°F and your humidity is uncontrollable. This is bad and can result in all sorts of problems, particularly during the flowering period. If you’ve got your ventilation system dialed in, it ought to remove and recycle the air in your space between 15 to 20 times per hour. One reason that many grow rooms neglect is that the ventilation isn’t on par with what is required to remove the hot, stagnant air and also to bring carbon dioxide.

Another reason why your temperature can be sky-high is that you’ve got your lights too low. The space should function as a vacuumdispelling hot air from the grow lights and ballasts and replacing it with fresh air from the lowest part of the space.

Another suggestion is to keep your carbon filters and wall mounted fans on even during the lights-out period. If you consider how the hot temperature and higher humidity level build up, you can see that the heat cannot escape and adds to the moisture that forms on the walls and the surface of these plants. This is how powdery mildew and mold become a threat, so make sure you have continuous fresh-air cycles and persistent blowing fans that mimic nature.

What is this?

This fungus will grow on new foliage and can cause problems to an entire grow room in a short time. PM travels through the atmosphere and requires moist and damp conditions with little airflow.

This unwanted fungus can be treated with acidic-based clogs, or with hydrogen peroxide and then rubbed off. It can take several days to completely remove a PM infection, so keeping a close eye on your plants is essential at this stage.

Troubleshooting for Beginner Pot Growers

Root-bound plants should be transplanted into new growing medium.

What do I do about the rusty-brown and yellow spots on my leaves?

Rusty-brown spots on the lower leaves are your plant’s way of telling you it is deficient in calcium and magnesium. Calcium plays a huge role in the mobile division of crops, alongside potassium.

The grow store said that my plants are demonstrating a lack and that I should feed them trace elements. What do they mean?

Well, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main nutrients to your plants. Another remaining nutrients, known as micronutrients or trace elements, are calcium, magnesium, sulfur, manganese, boron, zinc and copper. Cannabis requires this complete lineup of nutrients in order to perform complex jobs deep down at the cellular level.

My crops are root-bound. What should I do?

Root-bound pots may seem good, and several naive growers will show them off with pride without even realizing that their plant is now restricted. When growing in a cloth pot or a pot with air holes at the bottom, roots will have a chance to come into contact with air and, because of this, respond by pruning themselves.

Prepare a larger container with a new medium into which to transplant. Wet your present grow medium and turn the plant upside down with your fingers around the base of the main stem, carefully removing the whole root ball and placing it into the new medium.

Once I touch my grow medium with my palms, the soil is cold and moist. Is this bad or good?

Cold temperatures are not good when it comes to growing cannabis.

You desire your grow medium to be warm, and a great tip here is to use felt pots and have a temperature of 75°F around the base and tops of these plants. Lifting your pots off the floor and ensuring they’re not touching the cold floors can make a significant difference. Add a heater set at a low temperature to maintain the air nice and warm for the roots.

If you are hand-watering or bottom-feeding, use half as much nutrient solution twice as often. This can be beneficial in the long term than finding out the hard way and having to work backward to find out where you went wrong.

Good luck in growing your killer plants, and I hope these diagnostics have helped you already.

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